Pagasa Island, a tiny speck in the vast South China Sea, is only 37 hectares in size, yet it holds immense geopolitical importance for the Philippines. Despite harsh living conditions, around 300 people reside there, surviving on fishing and small-scale vegetable farming in the island’s sandy soil. But their peaceful existence is overshadowed by the growing presence of China in the region.
Just off the coast of Pagasa, a fleet of Chinese vessels—belonging to the navy and coast guard—patrol the waters. China has deployed hundreds of ships in the South China Sea over the last decade and constructed military bases and airstrips on submerged coral reefs. The strategic goal is to reinforce its claim over key maritime routes that support its southern export hubs.
While several Southeast Asian countries claim parts of the South China Sea, only Vietnam and the Philippines have dared to challenge China. Their military strength is no match for China’s, but they have managed to hold on to a few reefs and islands. Among them, Pagasa—also known as Thitu Island—is the largest and one of the few with a civilian population.
According to Jonathan Malaya, Assistant Director General of the Philippines’ National Security Council, Pagasa is vital due to its solid landmass, not just submerged rock. This gives it legal strength under international law, allowing a 12-nautical-mile territorial sea. It is also one of the few islands in the Spratly group where Filipino citizens live.
Tough Living, But Strategic Importance
Reaching Pagasa from Palawan takes 2-3 days by boat or an hour by plane; both options are often affected by rough weather. Until recently, only small aircraft could land on the island. But with the extension of its runway to 1,300 meters, larger planes like the C-130 can now land, bringing essential supplies such as rice, eggs, and fuel.
Life is hard here. Everything must be flown in. Most residents live in simple wooden homes and rely on fishing for income. But this has become difficult due to Chinese patrol ships. Larry Hugo, a fisherman living on Pagasa for 16 years, once filmed Chinese coast guard ships harassing him. Now he no longer ventures far out to sea and is forced to fish in depleted local waters.
Basic Services Slowly Improving
While the island has seen some development—a new aircraft hangar, a small seaport under construction, and plans for a control tower—services remain limited. Residents now have electricity and mobile phone access, but these came only four years ago.
Rileen Limbo, a schoolteacher on Pagasa for over a decade, has taught more than 100 children in a small but growing school. She describes the island as peaceful and safe. Children swim or play basketball after classes, and the community lives a simple life, free of the financial pressures of city life.
Health care, however, is a major concern. Melania Alosado, the island’s only health worker, says serious illnesses require air evacuation, which isn’t always possible due to weather or lack of flights. “I’m not a registered nurse,” she explains, “so I can’t handle critical cases. We do what we can.”
Tensions in the Skies and Seas
The presence of Chinese military bases nearby, such as Subi Reef just 32 km away, means Philippine aircraft flying to Pagasa are often challenged over the radio. Chinese authorities claim the area is part of their territory, but Philippine pilots assert their sovereign rights on each flight.
Diplomatic tensions have also increased. Under President Marcos Jr., the Philippines has taken a firmer stance than under his predecessor, Rodrigo Duterte, who avoided conflict with China. Weekly diplomatic protests are now lodged against Chinese incursions.
Jonathan Malaya believes showing strength earns respect from China. “The problem with democracies like the Philippines,” he says, “is that policies can change with every administration. China doesn’t have that issue.
Pagasa may be small and remote, but its presence and people symbolize the Philippines’ resolve to protect its territory and assert its rights. As tensions in the South China Sea continue, this quiet island will likely remain a focal point of regional power struggles.
